We first tasted (and were wowed by) Valentina Cubi’s Valpolicellas and Amarone in the wonderful Enoteca della Valpolicella in Fumane, just east of Lake Garda, twelve years ago.
Valentina’s father-in-law Federico Vasan was a big name in Negrar in the neighbouring valley until he sold his wine business in World War 2. Valentina and her husband Giancarlo Vasan found and bought an old winery in Fumane which produced and sold wine in bulk. They were trying to restore it but the building fell down when a worker accidentally knocked down a supporting wall. A complete rebuild was necessary.
If you think Valpolicella is simply a crunchy, harsh red to choke down with a pizza, you may be surprised by the elegance and complexity of Valentina’s wines. Her basic Valpolicella Classico, Iperico, is 75% Corvina with 25% Rondinella and is organic from the 2011 vintage. Her Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Il Tabarro is a blend of Corvina 65%, Rondinella 25% and Molinara 10%. Part of the distinctive flavour of high quality Valpolicella comes from being fermented on the skins of previously crushed grapes. Arusnatico is the Ripasso, the same blend as her Superiore but then the wine is “re-passed” over grape must. Her 2005 evokes autumn bonfires and late autumn fruit. Top of the line is Morar, her Amarone. The best grapes are selected from the best bunches, laid onto screens and allowed to turn into raisins. In January the raisins are crushed and fermented as normal after which the wine spends a year in barrels and a further year in big botti.
