The little known region of Oltrepo Pavese is a bump on the plain 60kms south of Milan. There was one major player in town. It’s fair to say Cantina di Casteggio was bigger than any other winery we had worked with. Much bigger. A Co-op which began in 1907 and by 2006 had 350 members and a massive facility: part run-down fascista-style, part space age. Try as we might, we just couldn’t resist the wines. Impressive across the whole range. The Cantina was very switched-on and started a ‘quality project’ with their best 50 growers, bringing in famous Italian consultant Riccardo Cotarella. They must have been looking over his shoulder during his visits as the entire range went from strength to strength.
Although it was already the biggest winery we had worked with it didn’t stop there. In 2008 they ‘merged’ with another Cantina in Broni, the next town and, in 2017, began to ‘absorb’ La Versa, a century-old Cantina Sociale, specialising in sparkling wine. The combined group now has 700 members spread across 28 villages, 90% of them in the hills (where the quality is finer). There is nobody else to absorb or ‘merge with’ for miles around!
100% Pinot Noir, Postumio is a true Methode Champenoise, fermented and aged for 18 months in bottle. Pinot Grigio, beautifully balanced. Sauvignon in the creamy, rather than zizzy, style. Fabulous Barbera – smooth and deep. A smoky Pinot Noir and now a spicy, grapey, gently sweet, gently sparkling Moscato.
There are also two interesting local oddities, both red and both frizzante (gently sparkling); the rarely seen Bonarda, which is dry, and the Sangue di Giuda (Blood of Judas), which has a soft touch of sweetness.
